Tribute paid to major contributor to manufacture and design in Borders

The former spy, who was born in Yugoslavia, spent more than 60 years in and around Galashiels.

His designs attracted some of the world’s most famous fashion houses - and kept alive the region’s weaving industry.

Klein arrived in Britain just after World War II to study textile technology at the University of Leeds.

After working for various companies involved in the industry he finally settled in Galashiels in 1950 where he was to establish his weaving centre two years later, Colourcraft, with a £500 loan from a friend.

Supermodels and film stars of the era, as well as royalty, wore Bernat Klein labels.

The big fashion houses, including Coco Chanel, Dior, and Yves Saint Laurent, were proud to produce his cutting-edge textiles designs.

And the high street’s biggest stores, Woolworths and Marks & Spencer, were also stocking his accessories and scarves.

At one point in the early 1960s almost every one of Gala’s 30-odd mills were weaving for him.

In a 2011 interview, Bernat said: “In the mornings I would show my scarves to Woolworths and, later, mohair stoles to Marks & Spencer; then in the afternoon I would meet Yves St Laurent or Pierre Cardin to show my exclusive new textile designs.

“It was a most unusual way of doing business – the two trades were so different. Being able to make designs acceptable to both was incredible.” It is estimated that his textiles empire was keeping up to 600 Borderers in employment during the early to mid 1960s.

He opted to branch out again - this time commissioning a new design studio close to his High Sunderland home, just outside Selkirk.

The keen artist continued to produce vibrant, breath-taking collections that were in demand from around the world.

During the same 2011 interview he added: “I had already started to paint to get my creative juices flowing and my colour wheels spinning. I gave them the colours I chose; I was the dictator.

“All my inspiration has always been derived from nature, what I see when I look out of my windows or walk down to the woods, where there is so much colour, even in winter. I was always mad about colours – I still am.

“You should select the colours you wear according to the colour of your eyes, something I wrote about in my book, Eye For Colour. Then, wear only very plain garments.” Like all Jews on mainland Europe the war years took their toll on the Klein family.

Bernat’s mother, Zorina, died in a Nazi concentration camp. His father, Leopold, survived and fled to Israel. Both had worked in textiles, from the town of Senta, north of Belgrade, before the war.

The young Bernat was sent to Jerusalem to study at the College of Art - he later moved to Israel, where he was recruited by Britain to work as a spy.

As soon as the war was over he moved to Leeds to study textiles.

In Yorkshire he met fellow designer Margaret Soper and they married in 1951 - a year after he had relocated to Galashiels. The couple were to have three children, Jonathon, Gillian and Shelley.

Amongst his close friends in the Borders was former Liberal leader, Lord Steel of Aikwood.

He told the Bordeer Telegraph: “He was a good friend, and of course a major contributor to manufacture and design in the Borders. “Indeed at one time he had the contract for all the chair covers in the House of Commons! He was also a very public spirited participant in the Borders Forum series of public meetings in the 1960s and 70s. “He leaves also a great collection of his paintings. He and his late wife will be remembered for their hospitality at their splendid Womersley-designed home on the Sunderland Hall estate.” Bernat Klein won a Design Council award in 1968, was awarded with a CBE in 1973, given an honorary degree by Heriot-Watt University in 2003 and was honoured by the Scottish Style awards in 2007.

Part of Benat Klein’s vast design archive was acquired by the National Museum of Scotland in 2011.

Even after his official retirement 20 years ago, Bernat continued to paint. He died after a short illness.